Algerians strike Ramadan balance of piety, recreation

2009-09-11

Ramadan nights come alive in Algeria after the Tarawih prayer, but it is the growing number of attendees at the Tahajjud prayer that has officials concerned.

Text and photos by Nazim Fethi for Magharebia in Algiers – 11/09/09

Night-time activities, both secular and religious, heat up in Algeria during the month of Ramadan.

Algerians of all ages feel invigorated during Ramadan; businesses are open in the evening, families fill cafes and mosques see more visitors than at any other time of the year. For thirty days, it is a different country. With piety, trade and evening activities of all kinds, daily life for the average Algerian changes completely.

During this month of religious fervour, activity at Algeria's mosques is at its height, especially with the arrival of new worshippers. But as the government and traditional religious leaders continue to vie for the allegiances of the country's youth, the issue of how Ramadan is observed has taken centre stage.

"Many people start praying during Ramadan, while others practise the fast without praying," said the imam of Kouba's Al Baqoun Aala El Ahd (the faithful to the pledge) mosque, which is considered by security services to be a Salafist stronghold.

In his messages, the imam roundly condemns what he calls "illicit" behaviour seen among worshippers during the Taraweeh prayers. Some young men use the occasion as an excuse "to go out with their fiancées, with their parents' permission", he says.

One prayer in particular is becoming increasingly popular, especially in mosques attended by Salafists.

The Tahajjud, or night prayer, has begun attracting so many young people in recent years that in late July, before the start of Ramadan, Religious Affairs Minister Boualamallah Ghlamallah instructed the imams to stop allowing prayers of this kind in their mosques, or at least to take firmer control of them.

But the issue still creates a quandary for government officials, who must balance public safety and religious freedom.

"It's not a question of closing the doors of the mosques" to resolve the problem of Salafists taking them over, the minister says. "We didn't shut the mosques when terrorism was at its height. How could we even consider doing that now?" he asks.

There are varying degrees of devotion among Algerian youth. Salim, who is in his twenties, participates in every daily prayer. "It's natural. If you're rigorous in observing the holy month, all your sins will be washed away," he says with total confidence.

His friend, Nadir, does not attend prayers every evening. "Sometimes I feel tired," he tells Magharebia.

Salim jumps in to chastise him for his laziness. "Look at these old people - they can't stand. They bring their stools and don't miss a single prayer."

Ramadan evenings have more than just a spiritual side. Things really get going after the Tarawih prayer. Streets in the major towns and cities are besieged by millions of people.

The kheïmas trend has overtaken Algeria, with businesses and hotels offering Ramadan recreation options inside massive tents.

Once evening prayers are over, Algerians have a surfeit of choices. While men head off to cafés and other mahchachate (game venues), women often prefer to stroll around the town, window-shopping. Family visits also increase in number.

With Algerians eager to attend special evening events, entrepreneurs have come up with a new way to attract attention.

Each year, more and more kheïmas (tents) pop up across Algeria. Soft lighting, comfortable lounges, mint tea, nargila and Algerian music combine to create the perfect successful kheïma during Ramadan.

Attracting an ever younger and "cooler" clientèle, kheïmas have become a real social phenomenon. The holy month is not complete without a visit.

Kheïmas have proven to be a real goldmine for businesses. In addition to five-star hotels, major car manufacturers and mobile telephone operators have joined the trend. Companies build their own kheïmas or rent them at hotels to market their merchandises and services to the heightened pedestrian traffic.

Even swimming pools are trying to prolong the summer, offering dancing until dawn. Theatres, cinemas and other cultural centres have all launched programmes to fill Ramadan evenings.

"I don't know which way to turn," admits schoolteacher Saliha. "There are so many things I'd like to see, and a month simply isn't enough. It's a shame these programmes are only offered during Ramadan."

Night-spots with music entertainment remain crowded every evening during Ramadan, right up until dawn. Some, such as the El Bahdja Café, draw so many music fans that the main avenue leading to the working-class district of Bab El Oued had to be closed.

Algerian cafes stay busy until dawn during Ramadan.

Ammi Hacène, a former casbah resident who moved away more than twenty years ago, makes the journey here every evening "to relive the atmosphere of the old days".

But this new trend of providing music and tea in a tent rather than a café is not to everyone's liking.

For Merouane, an accountant, the kheïmas hold little appeal. "Every year, they dream up new concepts to get our money. I'm sticking to the old ways. I wouldn't swap my evenings in the little cafés, listening to chaabi music, for all the tea in China. For me, that's what Ramadan is all about."

And then there are those who must go to work after a noisy Ramadan night.

"Every morning, I have to get up at 7 am," complains Djâafar, a white-collar worker who lives in the city centre. "With these evening events in the cafés, there's a constant racket all night. If people want to listen to music, why don't they go to concert halls which are designed for it?" "No one has the right to force us to stay up all night with them," he griped. s