Tunisians prepare for Eid al-Fitr

2007-10-12

Tunisians are struggling to maintain Eid traditions despite rising costs. Some markets cater to the middle and lower classes while the government is warning them to avoid dangerous traditions, such as fireworks and overindulgence in sweets.

By Jamel Arfaoui for Magharebia in Tunis – 12/10/07

[Jamel Arfaoui] Many Tunisians are reducing the extravagance of their iftar tables in order to buy clothing for their children.

With the end of Ramadan drawing near, Tunisians' generosity on their iftar tables gives way to an interest in Eid clothes and the buying of sweets to celebrate Eid al-Fitr, a holiday shared by more than one billion Muslims.

"I think that this basket will be the last one this full of purchases," said 50-year old Hammadi Balgith, speaking to Magharebia in front of the capital's central market. "Tonight is laylat al-qadr and it's my duty to be generous on such a day." He added, "I have started to avoid many of the things that we usually had on our iftar table. Now the expenses of sweets and Eid clothes come at the top of my list."

In the past two days congestion has reached its peak in front of shops selling ready-made children's clothes. On Eid al-Fitr, Tunisian families from all classes of society are accustomed to celebrating with new clothes and store-bought or home-made sweets they will distribute to visitors to their homes.

Although Tunis's Moncif Bey Market serves lower income customers, its streets were no less crowded than Habib Bourguiba Street and the streets parallel to it, such as Charles De Gaulle St., Hollanda St., or Espania St., where shelves are well-stocked with children's clothes. Moncif Bey Market, however, serves those who are those unable to afford the prices of the capital's main streets or the wealthy suburbs where the prices of boys' and girls' clothes range from 150 to even 300 dinars.

"Moncif Bey Market was given to us as a gift from heaven; prices here are not too expensive for us," said Mohamed Menaii, a father of two. "We sometimes find sympathy from the sellers, who give us attractive discounts. The expenses of Ramadan, which coincided with the start of the school year, left us no other option but to come to this popular market which will not leave our children deprived of the joy of Eid. It is their Eid, brother," he declared.

The market, which is located on the outskirts of the capital, includes all kinds of clothes and electric appliances and other commodities imported from China and Korea. One can also find all brands of sports shoes, perfumes, televisions, telephones and men's and women's clothing, but most are counterfeit and are offered at discounted prices. Shop owners appeal further to customers by following the lead of major retailers, offering up to 18-month instalment plans for re-payment.

When Magharebia asked merchant Mokhtar Mehbouli whether the instalment system covers the purchase of Eid clothes, he laughed and said, "We do whatever we can to make life easier for our customers, who, like us, belong to the middle class or even less."

Congestion at the end of Ramadan is not confined to clothing stores. It extends also to sweets shops where customers flock to buy as many treats as they can afford, to adorn their tables on the day of Eid.

The more traditional practice of preparing such treats at home has subsided for various reasons, the most important of which is women's lack of time and experience. The preparation of a dish of graiba, for example, requires a great deal of expertise, and a dish of maqroudh requires long, arduous work and patience.

In front of a bakery in the Lakania district, Halima Rahmouni awaited news of a dish of graiba she had given to the baker moments before. "I warned him against leaving the dish inside the oven for longer than required," she said. "He did that last year, and the graiba was completely burned. He insisted on compensating me, but I refused. It is against our morals to accept that because this was a divine decree!"

Halima declared proudly, "Last night, I was able to prepare the sweets for my grandchildren." She added, with a sense of pride while tapping her chest, "I don't depend on today's young women; the best that they can do is to boil an egg sometimes!"

As for the preparation of the other sweets, such as baklava or cookies, only the well-to-do families can afford them because they require almonds and hazelnuts, which are expensive ingredients. The price of a kilo of baklava in sweets shops can be up to 25 dinars.

Eid represents an annual opportunity for people to meet with loved ones and families, and for enemies to declare peace. The dead also have a share in this day, however. Many graveyards fill with visitors, and professional Qur'an reciters, beggars and bread merchants commingle. Many people buy bread and give it to the needy in honour of their dead.

After a number of accidents in recent years, the government has stepped up media warnings against the possession of fireworks, which have caused injuries to many children or caused them to lose their eyesight. The authorities plan to take legal action against illegal vendors and confiscate their goods.