Tunisian pottery industry struggles to stay competitive

21/09/2007

Tunisian pottery has a rich and ancient history. The earthenware and the skills of its creators have been handed down throughout the centuries, but the industry is challenged by cheap imports and a lack of interest from the craftsmen's children in carrying on the trade.

By Jamel Arfaoui for Magharebia in Tunis – 21/09/2007

[Getty Images] Tunisian potters enjoy a rich history

When we arrived at the outskirts of the city of Nabeul in the tribal homeland, the place was enveloped in thick black smoke. The clear blue sky was nearly smothered by it, and flames rose from kilns across the rooftops of the village of Dar Shaban El-Fahri, famous for its pottery industry.

"The people are accustomed to this scene, which became part of their lives scores of years ago," said Omar Makhlouf, a native of the region. "It is the source of their livelihood and everyone inherited the profession from their fathers and grandfathers. Many Tunisian families throughout the country, and especially in the regions frequented by tourists, make a living off of what is produced."

The Nabeul governorate, located just 70km from Tunis, is considered the unrivalled kingdom of pottery because of its abundant and varied earthenware products. The city of Nabeul's ancient name "Neapolis" comes from Greek references in the 5th century BC to the town, which flourished for several centuries during times of peace between the Punic and Roman wars.

Arab geographers during the Middle Ages, such as Al-Idrissi in the 12th century, described the city as "the Palace of Nabeul" and in more recent times "the country of Nabeul", which European travellers described as a "miniature heaven."

Pottery pieces from these ancient eras survive in Tunisian museums and historians tell us that first the Phoenicians, then the Romans, Byzantines and Muslims used clay pots of many types for both decoration and daily use in the kitchen.

[Jamel Arfaoui] Rachid Ben Farhat

Near the mountains of natural clay, we met factory owner Rachid Ben Farhat, his face red and pouring with sweat. When we approached he said nothing, simply beckoning for us to follow him. Moments later we stood before an underground kiln. With their intense heat, one can practically feel the flames from some distance away. "Here, the temperature inside the kiln reaches 1200 degrees, which is required for the process of drying the clay from which the earthenware pots are formed." When asked about the impact of the smoke on the village, Rachid said with complete confidence, "All research and studies conducted by the region confirmed that the materials we use—primarily dried wood—do not damage the environment at all. However, there are greedy craftsmen who, due to its lower cost, use plastic to fuel their kilns, but when the monitoring agency gets hold of them, they pay a heavy fine."

Fayez Ben Farhat, the factory owner’s son, told us the real problem for potters today is the entry of many outsiders into the profession and their use of advanced electric kilns. "It is true that they are better than us so far in terms of earning more profits quickly, but their product does not endure over time," said Farhat, asserting that his factory's product honours specifications "dating back to the time of the Phoenicians" and "up until today we see it enduring on the shelves of museums."

In one corner of the factory, scores of clay pots are stacked waiting to be decorated by craftsmen who acquired their skills through specialised training schools or from their fathers and grandfathers. In Nabeul, 2000 craftsmen hold professional certifications in the specialty of earthenware and pottery. The city is also home to 600 workshops and 70 pottery export firms.

In the 1980s, Tunisian authorities sent scores of the craftsmen to China to study the arts of pottery decoration and ornamentation. Since that time, the pottery industry in Tunisia has developed.

The pottery's traditional role remains in the kitchen. Even today, many Tunisians prefer to store their oils and olives in clay pots because they protect them from the light, which affects their taste and colour with the passage of time. Grandmothers often advise using clay pots to store winter provisions, and many Tunisians prefer their couscous to be served in an earthenware dish, even if it costs more.

Rather than being limited to jugs or baking dishes, however, earthenware has become a valued decorative item in Tunisian homes. Ornamental clay flowerpots – some as large as four or five metres wide – are precious gifts exchanged among friends and sweethearts, and tourists take them back to their countries as souvenirs. Decorated clay picture frames and chandeliers have also grown popular.

As evening settled over the city, the sun began to sink below the horizon and the smoke over the rooftops began to dissipate. But Mouaya Echechafii paid no attention to the end of daylight. He was engrossed in forming an immense jar for decoration. Handling the clay between his hands with the focus and precision of a surgeon, his fingers never stopped moving and his eyes were riveted to his creation. He removed a hand only to dry his sweat, and did not notice our presence until he was finished.

[Jamel Arfaoui] Mouaya Echechafii

"The clay is the first determinant of the value and durability we achieve," he said, complaining about the poor quality of the clay mix that day. "After that comes the role of the overseer of the kiln in drying the new creation." In the language of an expert, Mouaya added, "It is rare for you to see among youth today, those who have mastered this profession as an established art in its own right. And you will not master creation and innovation unless you embrace the piece of clay between your hands." Mouaya found many excuses for the disinterest of today’s youth. The pottery profession is beaten down and no longer flourishing, he said, especially with Chinese pottery entering Tunisia at cheap prices. "But manufactured pottery does not honour the specifications and quickly breaks apart and loses its decoration. Connoisseurs highly regard our products."

In Nabeul's Balajia market, Catherine Duvois, a French tourist debating the price of a flowerpot told us, "We are pleased with this flowerpot, with its nice shape and natural ornamentation. I think it will be a respectable gift for my colleague at work." Duvois complained of the high price, but in the end she said, "I think it is worth it, as it took a long time to make."

Although less expensive products from China are available in Tunisia, the authorities have moved to protect the pottery industry by increasing monitoring of the cheap imports. The craftsmen themselves have also organised a syndicate that protects their interests within the Tunisian Union for Industry, Trade and Traditional Handicrafts.

The Ministry of Tourism contributes by promoting traditional crafts at exhibitions overseas. To provide additional incentive to handicrafts workers to stick with their profession and improve it, each year President Ben Ali offers a monetary award to the best craftsmen in the traditional handicrafts field. Additionally, Traditional Handicrafts Day is an occasion for the professionals to promote and evaluate their work.