The medina of Rabat: a hive of activity

24/08/2007

Rabat's medina is bustling with trade and commerce, joining tourists and citizens in its unique atmosphere. As tradition melds with modernity, unofficial trade activity occasionally poses challenges to established shops and services.

By Sarah Touahri for Magharebia in Rabat – 24/08/2007

[Sarah Touahri] Perched on the left side of the mouth of the Bouregreg, Rabat's medina has remained more or less unchanged since it was built.

Perched on the left bank of the Bouregreg river as it flows into the sea on Morocco’s Atlantic coast, the medina of Rabat has remained more or less unchanged since it was founded over eight centuries ago by the Almohad sultan Abd al-Mumin in 1150.

A magnet for hordes of tourists seeking traditional objets d’art in the capital, one gets the feeling it has been just as lively since time immemorial. Every day, from dawn till dusk, dozens come here to shop or simply amble along its alleyways to soak up the special atmosphere. Water sellers, shoe-shiners, "nekkachates" (henna tattooists) and travelling tradesmen all make their living here.

The medina is crisscrossed by three main streets: Rue Souika (which becomes the Rue du Souk Sebbate), Rue Sidi Fatah and Rue des Consuls, which leads to the Casbah des Oudayas. Rue des Consuls is flanked by stalls belonging to tradespeople and craftsmen, especially carpet-makers.

Shoppers come from all over Rabat to stock up at the medina because of its reputation for good value. The ready-to-wear fashion, fabrics, shoes and consumer goods draw customers from all walks of life.

The craft boutiques found throughout the medina are thronged by fans of objets d’art. The artisans have their workshops here and some can work to order.

Carpets, small leather and copper items and jewellery adorn the walls of some shops. Tourists from a variety of countries stop in each boutique to admire the handicrafts produced in the medina before choosing the items that tug at their heartstrings, making sure to haggle down the price as much as they can. French tourist Helene Gavier seems to enjoy the atmosphere that hangs in the air here. She lovingly fondles a necklace in her hands and buys it without a moment’s hesitation. "The medina's just irresistible. It's amazing to discover another face of the capital which has managed to preserve its traditions and authentic character. And the handicrafts aren’t so expensive!" she says, delighted. For the last four years she has returned to Morocco, never missing the opportunity to walk along the alleyways of the medina which she has come to know inside and out.

[Sarah Touahri] Rue des Consuls is flanked by stalls belonging to tradespeople and artisans, especially carpet-makers.

Not only tourists from abroad enjoy the medina and love to wander through it, but many Moroccans have also come to know and love the surroundings that greet them here. They cannot imagine it being any other way. "The medina and especially Souika have to stay the way there are. Officials should make sure its authentic character is preserved. I come here every afternoon just to have a wander and unwind. I love its special atmosphere. We’ve got to make sure it stays this way," declares Hadda Maachou, an elderly lady who lives in l’Ocean, another district of Rabat. She adds that officials need to work to ensure that Souika de Bab El Had remains a peaceful and safe place.

Disputes break out occasionally between the mobile tradesmen and conventional shop owners. Mohammed Toumi, Secretary-General of the Association of Traders and Artisans of the commune of Rabat-Hassane, told Magharebia that travelling traders – whom he prefers to call permanent traders – are a major problem for all tradespeople along Rue Souika. These merchants arrive from a number of places including Sale and the capital, many from Hay Al Inbiaate, Annahda and Al Karya, displaying their wares on the bare ground in front of the shops. They sell their goods at low prices relative to those of the other traders since they have no overhead cost. "The shopkeepers are doomed. They pay water and electricity rates, rent, taxes and wages. That means they have to set their prices higher than this other lot. For instance, an item costing 130 dirhams from a shop would be sold by the itinerants for 100 dirhams. So the customer goes straight to them and the shopkeepers sit around twiddling their thumbs," he says. This has made the shopkeepers feel they are losing out, and for some time they have voiced their anger to the local authorities.

[Sarah Touahri] The medina of Rabat is just as lively as ever and attracts hordes of visitors.

Toumi says the Association has sent a number of letters to wilaya officials. "They’re starting to clamp down on the itinerants by going after them from time to time. We’ve asked the government to give them jobs elsewhere. We don’t wish them any harm, we just want things to be fair," he explains.

The government of the wilaya has been particularly busy in recent months, with local authorities on the trail pirated CD sellers. Raids have been made without warning, with as many as several thousand CDs and DVDs seized by police on some occasions. The police say the illegal trade must end, and the only way of making this happen is to carry out regular checks. Nowadays, few people dare to dabble in pirating. Those who do are held in custody for weeks and have to pay hefty fines, while repeat offenders risk imprisonment.

Aside from the trade in pirated CDs and the itinerant traders, another way in which the unofficial economy is present in the medina is the fact that for a number of years, many people have engaged in petty trades. In Bab El Had, plumbers, cleaning ladies, electricians and errand-boys stand around starting at dawn, patiently waiting for customers to arrive. Hours can go by before anyone requests their services. They’re used to it, but every morning brings new hope and refreshes their spirits. In any case, they have no choice but to keep on trying. They have virtually become a family, each able to appreciate the worries of the others as they are all trying to eke out a day to day existence.

Mohamed Boufarichi has worked for ten years as a plumber. "Every day I hope for God’s providence. Customers come along and take me back to their homes to install or fix something. Sometimes I get no work for three whole days in a row. It’s all a matter of luck," he says, eyeing passing shoppers who just might be potential customers.

The people of Rabat hope their city will retain its authentic, traditional feel. They believe the plan to regenerate the Bouregreg bay area will improve the city and restore its classic charm.