Girls seeking marriage and good fortune flock to Sidi Al Yabouri

05/01/2007

Every Wednesday, young women flock to Sidi Al Yabouri, a cemetery in the heart of Rabat's Medina. They hope that the rituals they perform and the herbs they buy there will bring them good fortune.

Text and photos by Sarah Touahri for Magharebia in Rabat -- 05/01/07

A women sell herbs and candles at Sidi Al Yabouri cemetery.

Every Wednesday there is a special atmosphere at the tomb of Sidi Al Yabouri, a marabout (a saint), in the heart of Rabat's medina where young women go, hoping to break evil spells. They believe their wishes will be granted if they follow the instructions given by seers to the letter.

Sociologist Hamza Kassouf explains that like most Moroccans, these girls are convinced that marabouts have magical powers. "It’s their upbringing that makes them feel they need to believe in this. It’s a last resort to keep them from sinking into despair. They’ve tried everything else and want to believe a spell has been cast on them," he says. He adds that despite their beliefs, they know they are performing "rituals that society frowns upon".

Most young women try to cover their faces so their families and neighbours don't recognise them. "I don’t want anyone to know I’m coming here. Otherwise they might start saying I’m a witch," explains one young woman.

Mourad Soufiani, an Islamic studies professor, says the reaction of these young girls is completely normal because this practise is against their religion. He adds that marabouts are not intercessors before God. "Islam advocates the worship of God alone … it is God Muslims should turn to if they want their wishes granted."

But this does not seem to dissuade the young girls, who firmly believe that the answers to their problems lie in the hands of these "saints". It doesn’t take them long to find their way around. At every turn there are women willing to be their guides for a few dirhams. According to Kassouf this is an ancient practise.

Zahra has been selling herbs and candles at the cemetery ever since her husband died 20 years ago. She has chosen a strategic spot where visitors pass by to sell her wares and says she had to struggle for months to get it. "I had to be strong and patient. I had to pluck up the courage to face a lot of other women to get established at Sidi Al Yabouri, and stood up to them because it’s the only way I can make a living," she tells Magharebia. She never misses an opportunity to invite passers-by to purchase her wares.

Fatima is one of the many girls at Sidi Al Yabouri. Biting her nails, she approaches Zahra. She buys two candles, some henna and a few herbs, then heads towards the sanctuary of the marabout. She says that every man she meets leaves her within just a few weeks. A seer has advised her to go to Sidi Al Yabouri if she wants to get married soon. "I’m 32 but I’m still not married yet. I’m fed up of the looks my family and neighbours keep giving me," she says.

She goes toward a group of young girls surrounding a woman wearing a greenish jellaba named Hnia. She says the same thing to each girl. "Sidi Al Yabouri is a place which can do many things for you. All you have to do is believe in its powers to get what you’re longing for." She takes a look around and tells a group of attentive young women how to make their wishes come true. Sugar, bread and dates are laid on the graves next to her.

Young women hope that herbs at Sidi Yabouri will bring them good fortune

Two teenagers seem to be filled with wonder at the atmosphere. They have had to repeat the same phrase time after time: "We come to meditate here, Sidi Al Yabouri, believing in your power. Please grant our wish. Please accept our request. We are counting on you, do not disappoint us."

The visit ends with a shower in the water inside the cemetery. Hnia warns all the girls that unless they use the "holy" water from the well, their wishes cannot be granted. "You simply must do it. The water is warm in the winter and cold in the summer because of Sidi Al Yabouri’s good fortune."

The visitors leave their clothes on the ground. Undergarments lie strewn all over the sanctuary. Every girl who washes leaves something behind so that the saint will grant her wishes. They must also light candles and turn around several times while repeating word for word phrases given to them by the women who "work" at Sidi Al Yabouri, praying to the saint to help them.

Henna is the last part of the ritual. The girls are free to choose how they put it on their hands. Experienced "nekkachas" -- henna women -- can help them with this. Some, however, prefer applying henna onto a stencil and then squeezing a lemon underfoot. One of them is really putting all her effort into the task. "I must believe in the power of Sidi Al Yabouri and follow the instructions of the women who supervise the place exactly."

Sidi El Yabouri becomes empty at 6pm. The women who supervise the marabout leave so they can return early the next morning. They gather up the sugar, bread and dates. More young women will seek good fortune from Sidi Al Yabouri. Kassouf says the rituals have remained unchanged for decades. Even in the 21st century, people still turn to marabouts. "There are no statistics on this phenomenon, but experts know that people’s beliefs don’t change overnight. It will take sustained education to root out this kind of ancestral practise."