Hand-made jewellery in Algeria: a living tradition

13/08/2006

In the regions of Kabylia, the Chaouis and the Toaureg, the Amazigh are keeping the tradition of jewellery making alive by mixing old techniques with modern styles. While the craft is well-known and respected, jewellers still have to deal with the problems of expensive material and counterfeiting.

By Kaci Racelma for Magharebia in Algiers -- 13/08/06

[File] Amazigh jewellery

Creating jewellery is a defining feature of Algerian Amazigh culture. Despite continuous foreign conquests, the people have kept the art alive. Traditional Amazigh jewellers tend to cater to modern tastes, while still staying true to their roots.

"Certain aspects of the jewellery handicraft industry must be updated to current tastes to adapt to changing demands. Remaining a prisoner to old ways is senseless because the world continues to evolve," noted the owner of a handicraft shop in Tizi-Ouzou. "The changes should above all involve the shape of the objects, which must go hand-in-hand with the improvement of commerce," he added.

Enamelling is a popular technique in Amazigh jewellery making. Some observers feel the glossiness conveys the warmth of the Amazigh regions. The technique was adopted around the 15th century by Jews, who introduced it to Kabylia and Chaoui. Earrings, rings and bracelets are some of the pieces made in this style. While shapes and colours remain a form of expression unique and peculiar to each region, no visible differences exist between Kabyle, Chaouis and M'sila jewellery. All three regions are influenced by Roman and Byzantine styles.

Handmade Amazigh jewellery has only recently begun to be celebrated with the annual Beni Yenni Jewellery Festival, which started in 1995.

Despite some success in marketing, the craft is struggling due to the high cost of material, explained Ali Kechout, a jeweller from Ath Yenni working in Tizi Ouzou.

"The basic material, whose prices fluctuate each time, is one of the problems Amazigh jewellers encounter. Each increase, as set by AGENOR (an Algerian public company in charge of precious metal distribution and importation), which holds the monopoly, the consequences disturb our clients, who often ask us for explanations." Jewellers also deplore what they call "handicraft counterfeiting".

Counterfeiters often use lightweight silver and oxidise it to create a worn appearance. Additionally, the scarcity of natural coral encourages the use of plastic. Merchants also import cheaply-made Amazigh-style jewellery.

Still, proper jewellers' expertise is not wasted. They have the opportunity to exhibit their talents at jewellery festivals, such as the recent one that was held from 27 July to 4 August -- a perfect way to show off their talents. Safeguarding this tradition depends on all industry participants.